Your home’s curb appeal really sets the tone for visitors and can make or break a sale. But let’s be honest—not every plant you stick in the ground is doing you any favors. Plenty of folks focus on adding pops of color and lush greenery, but some of the most common choices actually work against you. They might turn into maintenance nightmares, look like a mess after a few weeks, or even damage your property if you’re not careful.
Picking the wrong plants can seriously backfire, making your landscaping look neglected and even scaring off buyers. Invasive species, high-maintenance flowers, and fast-fading blooms can all create more headaches than pretty moments. It’s worth knowing which plants can drag down your curb appeal so you can make better choices and actually boost your home’s look.
25. Buttercup (Ranunculus spp.) – spreads rapidly and looks wild
Buttercups can take over your lawn and garden before you know it, making everything look untidy and lowering curb appeal. These weeds spread by seed, and some types like creeping buttercup shoot out stems that root wherever they touch dirt.
Sure, the yellow flowers look cheerful at first, but they basically scream “neglected yard” to anyone driving by. Most buttercups have tough roots that are a pain to pull out once they settle in.
If you actually want to grow buttercups on purpose, you’d be better off dividing the roots in spring or fall instead of going from seed. Plant the root bits about 1-2 inches deep, roots down.
To get rid of buttercups in the lawn, you’ll need to remove them completely. Fall or early spring is the best time to tackle them.
Pull small patches by hand or use the right herbicide for bigger problems. Once you clear them out, reseed with grass so you don’t end up with bare spots that just invite more weeds.
24. Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) – considered a harmful invasive plant
Purple loosestrife might look dramatic with its tall spikes of purple flowers, but honestly, this plant is trouble. This prohibited invasive species spreads like wildfire and can really mess up your property.
You should steer clear of planting purple loosestrife. It’s one of the most destructive invasive species in North America and will take over any damp spot around your home.
The plant loves sunny, wet places—think pond edges, ditches, and soggy low spots. Once it gets going, it pushes out native plants and hurts local wildlife.
Buyers see purple loosestrife and immediately worry about expensive removal and future headaches.
If you spot this pretty but problematic plant on your property, let local authorities know right away. Many states require you to keep it in check, and leaving it could even cause legal issues when selling.
23. Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) – can look invasive and cluttered
Sweet alyssum seems harmless at first, but it can quickly take over and make your yard look like a mess. This fast-growing annual forms thick mats that spread across your landscaping in no time.
The issue is how fast and aggressively it grows. Alyssum can become invasive, crowding out other plants and leaving your garden beds looking chaotic.
What starts as cute clusters of white or purple flowers can turn into a tangled carpet that just looks sloppy. Buyers see this and think you don’t keep up with yard work.
If you still want to plant sweet alyssum, give it full sun and a bit of afternoon shade if your summers get hot. It does best with some sunshine and cooler temps.
Water it regularly, but don’t drown it—wet soil can rot the roots. Snip off dead blooms to keep it flowering and to stop it from spreading seeds everywhere.
Honestly, it’s safer to keep alyssum in containers or limited spots instead of letting it run wild in your front yard.
22. Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea) – invasive ground cover that looks scruffy
Creeping Charlie is a notorious invasive weed that leaves your yard looking messy and kind of forgotten. This plant, originally from Europe, forms thick mats that can make even a well-tended lawn look neglected.
It spreads fast through runners and will smother your grass and other plants if you let it. The uneven, scruffy growth pattern just looks wild and out of place.
Ground ivy loves shady, damp areas where grass struggles. You might see small purple flowers in the spring, but overall, it just looks untidy.
This ground cover blocks sunlight and water from reaching other plants, leaving you with patchy, dying spots all over your yard.
Creeping Charlie is tough to get rid of once it’s settled in. Even little leftover pieces can grow back and cause a full-blown infestation.
Skip this plant and try native options like wild ginger or pachysandra for ground cover that won’t take over everything.
21. Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale) – Common Weed That Kills Curb Appeal
Dandelions are one of the most invasive and recognizable weeds in North America, and they can ruin curb appeal fast. The yellow flowers might look sunny, but they make your yard seem messy and poorly kept.
Dandelions crowd out grass and other plants, stealing water and nutrients from your lawn. Their seeds float everywhere, so they spread like crazy.
To keep dandelions away, focus on building a thick, healthy lawn. Reseed bare spots and fertilize to keep the grass dense.
Pull out any dandelions you see, making sure to get the whole taproot. It’s easier after it rains or when the soil’s damp.
Use pre-emergent herbicide in early spring to stop new seeds from sprouting. Regular mowing helps too, since it keeps dandelions from going to seed and spreading even more.
20. Azalea Oleander (Nerium oleander) – toxic and not homeowner-friendly
Oleander might look gorgeous, but it brings serious safety risks that make buyers nervous. Every part of this plant is toxic, from the leaves to the flowers.
It’s not an exaggeration—just chewing a bit of a leaf can be deadly. If you’ve got kids or pets, oleander is more of a hazard than a highlight.
If you’re set on growing oleander, make sure it’s in well-drained soil and gets plenty of sun. Water it regularly for the first year, then you can back off as it gets more drought-tolerant.
Trim it after blooming to keep it tidy and get rid of dead flowers. Always wear gloves (and maybe even long sleeves) when handling it.
With all the upkeep and real safety concerns for families and pets, oleander just isn’t worth the risk. Buyers often ask for it to be removed before they’ll even consider your house, and that’s an extra cost you probably don’t want.
Swap it out for a safer flowering shrub if you want color without the worry.
19. Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica) – large roots can cause yard damage
Weeping willows make a statement with their sweeping branches, but their roots are a real problem. These trees send out aggressive roots that can stretch three times wider than their branches.
Those roots hunt for water and can break into septic systems, pipes, and even sewer lines. They can damage foundations, sidewalks, and septic tanks, leaving you with big repair bills. Buyers see a willow and think, “How much will it cost to fix all that?”
If you really want a weeping willow, plant it at least 50 feet from your house or any underground utilities. Give it full sun and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Water young trees during dry spells. Prune off dead or broken branches in late winter, while it’s dormant.
If you already have a willow too close to your house, think about installing a root barrier to protect your property. But honestly, most buyers would rather not deal with the risk at all.
18. Peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) – if not deadheaded, become messy
Peonies put on a gorgeous show every spring, but without a little attention, they can look rough fast. If you skip deadheading, the spent flowers turn brown and hang around like little paper bags—definitely not the look you want. Letting peonies go after they bloom just makes your garden look tired and kind of forgotten.
When you don’t deadhead, peonies start pumping energy into seed pods instead of keeping their leaves nice. This usually means limp, messy plants that drag down your curb appeal.
If you’re planting peonies, pick a sunny or partly shaded spot with soil that drains well. Settle on a location you like, because they really hate being moved once they’re settled in.
Give them about 3 feet of space between plants, and make sure the tubers’ eyes sit just 2 inches below the soil. Water them regularly during the growing season, but skip overhead watering—nobody wants fungal problems.
You’ll want to deadhead peonies as soon as the blooms start to fade. Just snip off the spent flowers down to the first strong leaf or side bud, using clean, sharp shears. Don’t stress about being perfect, just get the old blooms off so things look tidy.
Leave the foliage alone until fall. Those leaves are feeding the roots for next year’s blooms, so let them do their thing.
17. Daffodils (Narcissus) – die back leaving bare, unattractive patches
Daffodils bring early color, but after blooming, they leave behind a mess—yellowing leaves and empty patches that can make your yard look like you forgot about it. As the foliage dies back, the spotty look isn’t exactly inviting if you’re hoping to impress buyers.
You have to leave those fading leaves in place for about 6-8 weeks after they finish blooming. That’s how the bulbs recharge for next year. Unfortunately, you’re stuck with floppy, browning leaves during prime home-showing season.
Plant daffodil bulbs in the fall, about 6 inches deep and a few inches apart, in sunny or partly shaded areas with soil that drains well. Water them during their spring growth, then back off once the flowers are done.
Don’t cut the foliage too soon, or you’ll weaken the bulbs. Instead, try hiding the dying leaves by planting hostas, ferns, or other perennials nearby. Some folks even stagger in succession flowers that pop up as the daffodils fade, so the garden never looks empty.
16. Petunias (Petunia spp.) – often short-lived and patchy blooms
Petunias are everywhere, but they can actually make your Indiana yard look a bit sad once summer hits. Their blooms start off strong, but the show doesn’t last—by midsummer, they often look thin and patchy.
Petunias want full sun and well-draining soil. Wait until after the last frost to plant, and give them about 6-12 inches of space, depending on the type.
Water at the base to avoid leaf diseases. They need steady moisture, but soggy roots will do them in.
The big struggle? Petunias love to get leggy and stop blooming as the season goes on. If you don’t deadhead and pinch them back, they’ll look sparse in no time. Indiana’s humidity just makes things worse, encouraging powdery mildew and other leaf problems that drag down your curb appeal.
Feed them every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer to keep blooms coming, but honestly, even with good care, patchy growth is hard to avoid. They’re just not the most reliable choice for a polished front yard.
15. Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) – fade quickly and leave bare spots
Marigolds look cheerful at first, but they don’t stick around for long—especially in Indiana’s muggy summers. They’re notorious for fading fast, leaving behind bare patches right when you want your yard looking its best.
Their short blooming period is the main problem. Once the first round of flowers fades, you’re left with empty spots that make the garden look half-finished.
Even if you avoid common marigold care mistakes, these annuals just don’t handle Indiana’s heat very well.
If you still want to try marigolds, plant them after the last frost, in well-draining soil and full sun. Give them 6-12 inches of space. Water them regularly but don’t drown them—root rot is a real risk. Deadhead the spent blooms to get a few more flowers, but you can’t really stop the fade.
Honestly, you’ll get better curb appeal from perennials that can handle the heat and keep the color coming all season.
14. Goldenrod (Solidago) – can look weedy and disorderly
Goldenrod lights up the yard with yellow blooms in fall, but it can get out of hand fast. The plant spreads aggressively and quickly makes things look wild and unkempt.
Goldenrod’s reputation as a weed isn’t just talk. Its tall, floppy stems sprawl everywhere, making landscaped beds look more like abandoned lots than intentional gardens.
If you want to grow goldenrod, give it sun or partial shade and soil that drains well. Space plants 18-24 inches apart—you’ll need that room, trust me.
Deadhead regularly to keep it from seeding everywhere. Cutting stems back by a third in early summer helps them stay bushier and less likely to flop.
Canada goldenrod is especially weedy. You might need to divide it every couple of years to keep it from taking over, or even install root barriers if you’re close to a property line.
If you’re selling your house, you might want to swap goldenrod out for something with a tidier, more controlled look—structured perennials will give you a neater front yard.
13. Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) – thorny and unattractive when not maintained
Japanese barberry might look good at first, but it gets thorny and wild in a hurry. This so-called low-maintenance shrub turns dense and tangled if you don’t keep it in check.
Those sharp thorns make trimming a pain and aren’t exactly family-friendly. When barberry goes untrimmed, it just looks messy, dragging down your curb appeal.
Plant in well-draining soil with sun or partial shade. Give each shrub 3-4 feet of space for airflow.
You’ll need to prune regularly, ideally in late winter or early spring before new growth starts.
Barberry handles drought once it’s settled in, but water new plants regularly their first season.
Keep in mind, barberry is invasive in a lot of places, and it can crowd out native plants. Plus, those thorny branches? They make a cozy home for ticks, which is a dealbreaker for a lot of folks with kids or pets.
You might want to swap it out for a native shrub that looks good and doesn’t bring the same headaches.
12. Rhododendrons (Rhododendron spp.) – large, unchecked can overwhelm a yard
Rhododendrons put on a fantastic spring show, but if you let them go, they’ll swallow your yard. These evergreens can easily hit 8 feet tall and wide—sometimes more.
When rhododendrons outgrow their spot, they crowd out everything else and throw off the balance of your landscaping. Overgrown shrubs just make the yard look forgotten, which is the opposite of curb appeal.
Plant in acidic, well-draining soil with some shade. Dwarf varieties are better for small spaces, so you don’t end up with a monster shrub.
Give them enough room—usually 4-6 feet between plants—so they don’t compete for air or light.
Water regularly, but don’t overdo it. Mulch helps keep the roots cool and moist.
Prune right after they flower to control their size. Cutting back overgrown rhododendrons can mean fewer blooms next year, but sometimes you just have to do it.
If yours are already too big, consider limbing them up to show off the trunks and make room for smaller plants underneath. It keeps things looking intentional, not overrun.
11. Hostas (Hosta spp.) – prone to foliage damage and browning
Hostas seem like a solid pick for Indiana shade, but they’re notorious for leaf problems. Brown spots, yellowing, and ragged edges can make them look sickly and neglected—definitely not the vibe you want out front. Leaf browning and damage happens more often than you’d think.
Lots of things cause hosta browning: too much sun, inconsistent watering, and a whole lineup of diseases. Indiana’s wild weather doesn’t help, either—late frosts and dry spells stress them out, and moisture swings just make it worse.
If you’re planting hostas, pick a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade. Use rich, well-draining soil, and give them enough space—anywhere from 18 to 36 inches, depending on the variety.
Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t drown them. Mulch helps hold in moisture and keeps the roots happy.
Diseases like anthracnose can leave ugly spots, and slugs love to chew holes in the leaves. Even with good care, hostas just have a knack for looking rough by midsummer, which isn’t great if you’re trying to wow buyers.
10. Daylilies (Hemerocallis) – tend to look tired and overcrowded
Daylilies seem like a safe bet, but honestly, they get out of hand fast if you don’t stay on top of them. These perennials spread like wildfire and soon form thick, overcrowded clumps that look forgotten.
Once they’re packed in, you’ll notice brown spots on the leaves and fewer flowers. The plants start fighting for space and nutrients, and pretty soon the whole patch just looks tired. Not exactly the curb appeal you want.
Give daylilies a spot with good drainage and at least six hours of sun. Space them 18-24 inches apart—seriously, don’t cram them together or you’ll regret it.
Every 3-4 years, you’ll need to dig up the clumps, split the roots, and replant the healthiest ones. It’s a bit of a chore, but it keeps them looking presentable.
Water when it’s dry, but don’t drown them—root rot is no joke. Deadhead spent blooms and pull off yellow leaves as you see them.
If you skip the upkeep, daylilies turn into a messy mass that screams “neglect.” For something that’s supposed to be easy, they sure make you work for it.
9. Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) – without regular pruning, look wild
Hydrangeas have gorgeous blooms, sure, but if you let them go, they can get wild in no time. These flowering shrubs start looking tangled and messy pretty quickly if you skip the pruning.
Sprawling hydrangeas with dense, tangled branches just look like nobody cares. That’s not the impression you want to give.
Stick them in well-draining soil, with morning sun and some afternoon shade. Depending on the type, space them 3-6 feet apart.
Water deeply once or twice a week if it’s dry, and mulch a couple inches thick to keep moisture in.
Pruning at the wrong time is why hydrangeas don’t bloom. Bigleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood—prune them right after they finish flowering.
Start by cutting out dead or crossing branches. Then thin some older canes to keep things tidy and encourage new growth.
For smooth hydrangeas (they bloom on new wood), prune in late winter or early spring—cut them back to about a foot or so from the ground.
If you keep up with annual pruning, hydrangeas can actually look fantastic and give you plenty of flowers.
8. Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia) – leggy growth detracts from neatness
Forsythia is one of those shrubs that looks amazing for about a week in spring, then goes downhill if you don’t keep it in check. Leggy growth with long shoots and bare bases pops up fast if you skip pruning.
When you don’t prune forsythia after the first few years, the branches get long and wiry with leaves only at the tips. The base turns sparse and, honestly, kind of ugly.
Plant forsythia in full sun and well-draining soil, giving them at least 6-8 feet to spread out. They need room, but not too much.
Prune right after they finish blooming in spring. Cut out old dead canes at ground level every year.
Regular pruning keeps the plant bushy and neat. Don’t be afraid to cut back overgrown branches to help new shoots come up from the base.
Water deeply during dry spells and toss on a balanced fertilizer in early spring before new growth.
Forsythia can look great—but only if you keep up with it. Otherwise, it’s just another overgrown shrub.
7. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) – spreads uncontrollably and hard to remove
Lily of the valley smells wonderful and looks sweet, but it’s a real headache once it settles in. This plant spreads like crazy underground and can take over your whole bed before you know it.
Trying to dig it out? Good luck. You have to get every bit of rhizome or it’ll just pop back up. Even tiny root pieces will regrow.
It’s so invasive that it’ll crowd out anything else nearby, making the whole area look kind of wild and neglected.
If you’re tempted to plant it, maybe reconsider. It does well in cool, moist, shady spots with decent drainage. Plant rhizomes in fall, 4-6 inches apart.
But if you want to control it, get ready for a battle. You’ll need to keep digging up new shoots or use herbicides. Barriers can help, but honestly, getting rid of it usually takes a few stubborn seasons.
6. Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii) – spreads aggressively and crowds other plants
Butterfly bush has stunning, fragrant flowers, but wow, it can take over your yard in a hurry. The biggest gripe? It spreads way too easily.
This shrub self-seeds all over and before you know it, seedlings are everywhere, crowding out your carefully chosen plants.
Left unchecked, butterfly bush will outcompete native and more desirable species, leaving your beds looking wild and messy.
If you’re set on planting one, go for a sterile variety that doesn’t set seeds. Plant in full sun, well-drained soil, and give it at least 5 feet of space.
Deadhead the spent blooms before they go to seed, and don’t skip heavy pruning in late winter to keep it in bounds.
Honestly, native alternatives are a smarter choice if you want to avoid a constant battle. They’ll give you the same pollinator benefits without the chaos.
5. Juniper Bushes (Juniperus spp.) – can become too dense and scraggly
Junipers start off looking sharp, but if you ignore them, they get scraggly and sad fast. They grow dense and thick—not in a good way.
The inside of the bush gets no sun, so the inner needles die off and you end up with bare, brown patches. Dead zones form because sunlight can’t reach inside.
Plant junipers in full sun and give them room to grow. Space them so they don’t get jammed up as they mature.
Once they’re established, water deeply but not often. Too much water can kill them.
Prune to keep the shape, but never cut into the dead wood—nothing grows back from there.
Winter sun and wind can also do a number on them. Protect them if you can, and keep watering until the ground freezes.
When junipers get overgrown, they just look old and neglected. Not exactly welcoming to buyers who want easy landscaping.
4. Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.) – common but can look overgrown fast
Azaleas are a spring favorite, but they can turn into a tangled mess before you know it. If you let them go, they’ll outgrow their spot and look wild.
Messy, overgrown azaleas drag down your home’s curb appeal. They grow fast, and in just a couple seasons, they’ll spill out of their beds.
To keep them looking sharp, plant in partial shade and make sure the soil drains well. They like it slightly acidic—pH 4.5 to 6.0 is best.
Prune within a few weeks after blooming—that way, you won’t cut off next year’s buds and you can keep the size under control.
Water during dry spells, but don’t let them sit in soggy soil. Mulch helps hold moisture and keeps weeds down.
Stay on top of care and pruning, and azaleas can be a real asset, not an eyesore.
3. English Ivy (Hedera helix) – damages structures and looks unkempt
English ivy seems like an easy ground cover, but it’s more trouble than it’s worth. This vine takes over fast and quickly looks wild and messy.
Plant English ivy and it’ll spread everywhere—underground runners, climbing stems, you name it. It likes shade and moist, well-drained soil.
But here’s the real problem: ivy can seriously damage your house if there are any weak spots. Heavy vines can pull on gutters, siding, and even your roof.
It’ll smother or wreck anything in its way as it climbs. That kind of invasive growth just makes your place look like nobody’s taking care of it.
English ivy needs constant pruning to keep it from running wild. Skip a season and you’ll be dealing with thick, woody stems that are a pain to remove.
The dense cover blocks sunlight from reaching anything underneath, leaving bare, patchy spots in your beds.
Most buyers see ivy-covered homes as high-maintenance headaches, and honestly, they’re not wrong.
2. Privet Hedge (Ligustrum spp.) – invasive and gets unruly quickly
Privet hedges might look like a tempting privacy solution, but they bring a heap of headaches for Indiana homeowners. Several privet species are considered invasive and honestly, they’re best left out of your plans.
These shrubs spread like wildfire through roots and seeds. Chinese privet has invaded millions of acres across the South and just keeps creeping north.
If you already have privet, you know how fast it gets out of hand. You have to prune constantly just to keep it from swallowing the yard.
Privet grows in sun or partial shade and really isn’t picky about soil. People sometimes plant them 2-3 feet apart for hedges, but honestly, that’s just asking for trouble.
Water them regularly the first year to get them started. After that, you barely need to do anything—except chase after the rampant growth.
These aggressive hedge plants prove challenging for gardeners because they grow so quickly.
Native alternatives like ninebark or spicebush make way more sense. They give you privacy without the invasive headaches that come with privet, and they’re a lot kinder to local wildlife.
1. Boxwood Shrubs (Buxus sempervirens) – often overgrown and messy if not trimmed
Boxwood shrubs can turn into a real mess if you ignore them. These evergreens grow slowly but pile on thick foliage, sometimes overwhelming your landscape design.
Skip the maintenance and boxwood shrubs become overgrown, losing that tidy look. Dense growth blocks light and gives your yard a cluttered, neglected vibe—not great for curb appeal.
Boxwoods like well-draining soil and can handle sun or partial shade. For hedges, plant them 2-3 feet apart, or give them more space if you want them as stand-alone features.
Water regularly that first year to help roots settle in. Toss on a balanced fertilizer in early spring before new growth gets going.
Pruning boxwoods regularly each spring helps keep them in check. Use sharp, clean shears and shape away.
If your boxwoods are totally out of control, you can cut them back by 2 to 3 feet without killing them. Just make sure each stem keeps some green foliage.
A little trimming goes a long way—boxwoods look best when you keep them neat, not when they’re running wild.
Frequently Asked Questions
Homeowners wonder what plants boost property value and which ones might scare buyers off. Here are some answers about landscaping choices that actually help your curb appeal in Indiana.
What are the most low-maintenance plants that can enhance my home’s curb appeal?
Hostas (Hosta spp.) do great in Indiana and don’t need much fuss. Plant them in partial shade with well-draining soil, about 12-18 inches apart. Water them regularly the first year—after that, they mostly fend for themselves.
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) bring bright color and barely ask for anything. Plant the crowns at soil level in sun or light shade. Every few years, divide clumps to keep them blooming strong.
Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) gives your yard year-round structure and just needs a trim once a year. Stick them in well-draining soil and water deeply during dry spells. Mulch helps keep moisture in.
These impossible-to-kill outdoor plants hold up through Indiana’s unpredictable weather and still look good.
Can you suggest some perennial plants that are perfect for improving the front of my house?
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida) puts out bold yellow blooms from summer to fall. Plant seeds or starts in full sun and average soil. Water that first year, then let them do their thing.
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) draws butterflies and flowers for ages. Plant in well-draining soil and full sun. Snip off spent blooms to keep the show going.
Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.) offer colorful foliage and delicate blooms. They like partial shade and rich, loose soil. Water regularly, but don’t drown them—root rot is a pain.
Astilbe (Astilbe spp.) puts up feathery plumes in shadier spots. Plant in moist, rich soil and keep it mulched. Every few years, divide them up to keep them happy.
What are some year-round plants that can keep my front yard looking attractive?
Evergreen shrubs like Juniper (Juniperus spp.) keep their color all winter. Plant in full sun and well-draining soil. Once they’re established, just water deeply now and then.
Ornamental grasses like Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) bring winter interest with their seed heads. Plant in spring, full sun, average soil. Cut them back in late winter before new shoots appear.
Holly (Ilex spp.) shows off berries and shiny leaves year-round. They like slightly acidic, well-draining soil. Water as they get established and prune a bit in late winter.
Yew (Taxus baccata) keeps its dark green needles even in the cold. Plant in moist, well-drained soil with some shade. Trim once a year to keep them tidy.
Which plants should I avoid planting in my front yard to prevent negatively affecting my home’s curb appeal?
Buttercup (Ranunculus spp.) spreads fast and gives the yard a wild, messy look. It can crowd out better plants and just looks sloppy, honestly.
Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) is considered a harmful invasive plant and can wreck local habitats. Many states have banned it for good reason.
Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) might start cute, but when it self-seeds everywhere, it gets messy and ruins tidy landscaping.
Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea) is another aggressive ground cover that just makes things look neglected. It’s a pain to control and rarely looks intentional.
Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale) are the classic weed—nobody wants to see them in a front yard. These poisonous backyard plants send the wrong message about maintenance.
How can I choose flowers that will add vibrant color to my home’s exterior throughout the seasons?
Spring bulbs like Tulips (Tulipa spp.) and Daffodils (Narcissus spp.) bring early color. Plant bulbs in fall, about 6 inches down in well-drained soil. Let the leaves die back naturally to keep the bulbs strong.
For summer, annuals like Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) and Petunias (Petunia spp.) bloom nonstop. Plant them after frost in full sun and keep them watered. Deadhead to keep the color coming.
Fall-blooming Mums (Chrysanthemum spp.) stretch the color into autumn. Plant in spring, full sun, good drainage. Pinch tips until July so they stay bushy and bloom more.
For winter, try plants with colorful bark, like Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea). Plant in moist soil with sun or partial shade. Prune every year to get the brightest color on new stems.
What shrubs would you recommend for a low-maintenance yet appealing front-of-house landscape?
Spirea (Spiraea spp.) bursts with spring or summer flowers and hardly asks for attention. Just stick it in full sun and average, well-drained soil. If you want to keep it tidy, give it a quick prune right after it blooms.
Barberry (Berberis spp.) brings bold color and barely needs you at all. It does fine in sun or partial shade and isn’t fussy about soil, as long as it drains. Maybe snip it back a bit in late winter, but honestly, you could skip it.
Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) delivers those big, showy blooms and doesn’t demand much. It likes some morning sun, shade in the afternoon, and richer, moist soil. Water it now and then, toss on some mulch, and you’re set.
Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus) lights up the yard with fiery fall color and doesn’t make a fuss. Full sun or a touch of shade works, just average soil is fine. Trim it each year if you want to keep it from taking over.
