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How to Install Faux Stone and Brick Veneer

Installing faux stone and brick veneer.


A stone or brick home has a timeless elegance that many love but redoing your siding to be made of stone or brick is expensive, time-consuming, and you need to hire a contractor. However, faux stone and brick veneer gives you that timeless elegance for a significantly lower price and you can install it yourself. Here is a step-by-step guide to installing General Stone’s faux stone and brick veneer.

Tools You Will Need

Before you get started, you will need to gather some tools. This is the list of recommended and optional tools for installing GenStone on any surface, as well as some tools that are for specific surfaces only.

Recommended tools

  • Hand Saw
  • Utility Knife
  • Tape Measure
  • Caulking Gun for a 10 oz Tube
  • Screwdriver Bits
  • Drill
  • Framing Square
  • Level
  • Sandpaper
  • Marker
  • Gloves
  • Safety Goggles/Glasses

Optional tools

  • Table Saw
  • Compound Miter Saw
  • Jig Saw
  • Power Sander
  • Rubber Mallet

Additional recommended tools for the medium you are applying it to:

Tools for applying to wood

  • 1.625” Non-Corrosive Deck Screws
  • 2.5” Non-Corrosive Deck Screw (for Ledger)

Tools for applying to brick or concrete

  • Tapcon Screws
  • Masonry Screwdriver Bits

Tools for applying to gypsum board

  • 6” x 1.25” Drywall Screws

Step One: How much do I need?

The first thing you need to do to install faux stone and brick veneer is to determine how much you will need. The way we recommend you measure is by measuring the linear feet in the area you will be working in. A linear foot is how many feet make up the area horizontally.

The linear feet measurement will help you determine how many ledgers and trim you want to use in the project.

Measuring by linear feet.

Formula to Measure Stacked Stone

Here is the formula for stacked stone, in a 65′ long by 4’ tall wainscot:

· 65 x 12 = 780 inches long

· Each panel provides 41″ of width coverage so 780 / 41 = 19.02 panels

o Each panel delivers 11″ of height coverage so 19.02 x 4 = 76.08 panels

o Always add 5% and round up! 76.08 x 1.05 = 80 total panels needed

· Each ledger provides 42″ of width and 3.5″ of height

o 780 / 42 = 18.57 ledgers

o Always add 5% and round up! 18.57 x 1.05 = 20 total ledgers needed

· For a 90º corner, there are both inside and outside corner panels available. Each one is 18″ of width per row. The corners are the height of two panels stacked. For every 3 corners, subtract one full panel.

Formula to Measure Brick Veneer

Here is the formula for brick veneer, in a 65′ long by 4’ tall wainscot:

· 65 x 12 = 780 inches long

o Each panel provides 22.25″ of width coverage so 780 / 22.25 = 35.05 panels

o Each panel delivers 22.25″ of height coverage so 35.05 x 2 = 70.01 panels

o Always add 5% and round up! 70.01 x 1.05 = 74 total panels needed

· Each ledger provides 47″ of width and 3.75″ of height

o 780 / 47 = 17.42 ledgers

o Always add 5% and round up! 17.42 x 1.05 = 19 total ledgers needed

· For a 90º corner, there are both inside and outside corner panels available. Each one is 18″ of width per row. The corners are the height of two panels stacked. For every 3 corners, subtract one full panel.

Brick veneer corner panel dimensions.

Ledgers dimensions

Step Two: Sort and Lay Out Panels

We have four different types of panels that you can use to create random-looking patterns and we recommend that you do not place two of the same panels next to each other, or directly above or below each other. To ensure that your GenStone looks the best, sort the panels and put together your design on the ground before putting it on the walls.

Make sure you clean the surface you will be attaching the panels to; it needs to be free of dust and debris.

Sorting and laying out panels.

Step Three: Measuring and Marking

You are likely going to need to cut some spaces into your panels for light switches and electrical outlets. There are two different ways you can measure and mark where you need to cut, depending on what kind of saw you are using.

For a circular or hand saw, measure and mark the line you need to cut on the backside of the panel. Use a level or straight edge to make sure your line is straight.

For a table saw, mark a point on the surface of the panel and put the flat side down on the table.

Marking a point on the surface of the panel.

Measuring the panels.

Step Four: Cutting

Once your panels have been marked, it is time to cut them. If you are using a circular saw, you need to protect the panel while cutting.

If you are cutting smaller pieces, a compound miter saw is your best option, though you can use a jigsaw or hand saw.

When you are cutting out pieces of the panel to make room for something like an outlet, cut it out using a keyhole saw, jigsaw, or a drill’s hole saw.

Cutting out pieces of the panel using a keyhole saw.

Cutting out pieces of the panel using a hole saw.

Cutting out pieces of the panel using a jigsaw.

Cutting Negative Shiplap Edges

Sometimes you may need to cut a negative shiplap edge into a piece. You can best do this with a table saw, a router or router table; if you do not have any of these, a circular saw may be used. You can use a panel to determine the height of the cut — it should be about one-inch, the horizontal cut of the shiplap edge. After you make the cut, reset the blade to match the depth of the shiplap edge, which is about half an inch. You are essentially cutting a little rectangle out of the material.

Cutting negative shiplap pieces.

Cutting Pieces to Fill Gaps

You may have some sections where you need a small piece to fill in a gap. To do this, measure the gap from left to right, not including the fingers. Use the factory edges and cut what you need to remove from the middle of the panel. Make sure you do not cut through the mortar; only cut through the bricks.

Cutting pieces to fill the gaps.

Cutting pieces to fill the gaps.

Step Five: Attaching Panels

The first thing to install is your corner pieces. First, mark a vertical line on both sides of the corner just far enough away that they will be visible when you are test fitting your panels. Pick a corner to start with and test the fit and trim it to find the best fit for it. Use a level to make sure everything is straight and even before you add screws.

Attaching panels using a level to make sure everything is straight.

The corner pieces have a positive edge on the top, so they always need some minor adjustments. You may need to shave a little bit off of the back of the panel but be careful not to shave off too much.

Securing corner panels with screws.

Mitering is the best way to fit inside corners and corners that are not 90°. You can lightly sand these and seal them with GenStone Color Matched Caulking and Touch-Up Paint.

The panels come with shiplap edges so you can interlock them easily. As you move along the wall, secure each panel with screws. Space the shiplap screws eight inches apart and in the panel itself where you feel any flex. Any screws you put in the face of the panels should be placed in the shadows of the stone to help camouflage them.

Any screws you put in the face of the panels should be placed in the shadows of the stone to help camouflage them.

For outside installations, apply adhesive to the surface before placing the panel in addition to using screws to secure them.

For outside installations, apply adhesive to the surface before placing the panel in addition to using screws to secure them.

There are some slight differences in the installation process, depending on the material you are applying your GenStone to.

Applying to Wood

If you are attaching your GenStone to wood, the first thing to do is make sure your surface is completely flat, and sand down where needed. Then, apply a moisture barrier to protect the wood.

To attach the panels, you will need 2.5″ exterior grade non-corrosive deck screws. From here, you can follow the other instructions in this guide.

Applying to Brick or Concrete

If you are applying this to either brick or concrete, make sure you always keep the positive side of the shiplap at the top. Use a polyurethane safe construction adhesive — we recommend PL-200 or PL-300 — on the back of the panels and apply a 3/8″ bead of the adhesive in an “S” pattern.

Make a pilot hole with your hammer drill before you screw in the concrete anchors. You will want to use concrete screws, called Tapcons, to attach the panel to the brick or concrete.

Applying to Gypsum Board

When you use gypsum board, it is not recommended that you use adhesive. You will need drywall screws to attach it, following the instructions as shown in this guide.

Ledgers

If you are using ledgers, you will need a longer screw; we recommend 2.5” screws. To install the ledger, apply adhesive to the back of it and on the top of the positive shiplap edge of the panel below it; then fit the pieces together. Once you have it placed, put screws on each end of the ledger, countersinking the screw 1/8″. Add additional screws where needed.

Step Six: Caulking

Cover the screws you put in the face of the panels with GenStone color match caulk. Caulking these screws as you go will give the caulk time to dry before you are ready to touch them up. Caulk the shiplap edge after attaching screws, before you attach the next panel.

Caulking the shiplap edge after attaching screws and before attaching the next panel.

Apply a thin bead of caulking, no thicker than half an inch, to the positive shiplap edges and behind the finger tabs.

Applying a thin bead of caulking, no thicker than half an inch, to the positive shiplap edges and behind the finger tabs.

Before you apply the caulk, make sure the surface is completely clean and free of contaminants. While the caulk is curing, keep alcohol and solvent clears away from it. Curing can take up to two weeks.

Step Seven: Touch Ups

Once the caulk has fully dried, cover each screw with GenStone Color Match Touch-Up Paint, which will match the coloring of your stone panels. The paint will also cover up any exposed foam from cutting, and any other minor cosmetic damages.

 

About the Author

Auz Burger is a freelance writer who specializes in stone and brick veneer and home decor. She has a BA from Washington State University and has been writing and editing professionally for 10 years. Connect with her on Twitter at @AuzBurger.

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